VIN number lookups are smart when shopping for a used car, but Carfax is expensive. Here are several Carfax alternatives you can check out. He'll even be able to identify cracks in the frame of the vehicle, all information a vehicle history report can't give you. Sure, a mechanic is a little more expensive,.

The WiFi Protected Setup protocol is vulnerable to a brute force attack that allows an attacker to recover an access point’s WPS pin, and subsequently the WPA/WPA2 passphrase, in just a matter of hours. This is something that I’ve been testing and using for a while now, but Stefan over at beat me to publication. Such is life. 🙂 Stefan’s code isn’t quite ready for release yet, so I’ve open-sourced, my WPS attack tool. Reaver is stable and has been tested against a variety of access points and WPS implementations. Usage is simple; just specify the target BSSID and the monitor mode interface to use: # reaver -i mon0 -b 00:01:02:03:04:05 For those interested, there is also a commercial version available with more features and speed improvements.

So I got the thing compiled, on linux. And it looks like it isn’t merely tied to linux (that’s what you’re using pcap for, because it provides _portable_ capturing?) but more or less tied to your computer. You really should try and compile it on a different unix, fix all the includes linux silently adds but other unices don’t, heck even run that README through a text-formatter set to less than 80 characters wide, do some cross-testing and all that. Some sort of verbose reporting would be nice too.

I just ran the thing for a night on two different wifi interfaces presumably in monitor mode (let kismet do the heavy lifting there) but all it did was say once “waiting for beacon” and sit there until eternity. Kismet sees beacons, your software doesn’t.

Well, useful. As much as I dislike the hype around python, I think I’ll wait for Stefan’s code as it looks like having a better shot at actually working on systems not equal to the author’s. I’m running -vv, but it seems I may have been blacklisted from the AP. Reaver tried about 2% of pins before i began recieving timeouts. Now, all I get is timeouts (WARNING: Recieved timeout occured) from this particular AP. I tried giving it a few minutes to recover, but nothing changed.

I changed my HW address to something different, thinking that may solve it and allow me to continue the brute force, but no beans. I can still associate with the AP, so it seems the device is up, but perhaps I’ve exhausted the PIN attempts maybe? I’m letting it sit for about a half hour and then I’ll be trying again. I’ll let you know more specifics then.

Hi Craig, Thanks for your tool, I used by i have this problem: Any idea? Perhaps the router is not vulnerate?? Hi Craig, I follow your recomendation, I put my wiifi card more near to de AP. I have a (hopefully not stupud) question.

In Stephan Viehbock’s white paper on this, it says this: “An attacker can derive information about the correctness of parts the PIN from the AP´s responses. If the attacker receives an EAP-NACK message after sending M4, he knows that the 1st half of the PIN was incorrect. If the attacker receives an EAP-NACK message after sending M6, he knows that the 2nd half of the PIN was incorrect. This form of authentication dramatically decreases the maximum possible authentication attempts needed from 10^8 (=100.000.000) to 10^4 + 10^4(=20.000). As the 8th digit of the PIN is always a checksum of digit one to digit seven, there are at most 10^4 + 10^3 (=11.000) attempts needed to find the correct PIN.” I’ve noticed, using Reaver, that in the PIN attempts the second half of the PIN is reused quite frequently, sometimes 3 times out of 5 in a row.

Is this because the the second half of the PIN cannot be tested until the 1st half has been successfully identified? After re-reading the paper I think this is the case, but I was hoping for confirmation.

I have a question about walsh/wash: after probing about 30 APs with WPA/WPA2 enabled, I found that no-one of them has WPS. My router has WPS, but no configuration at all in the panel (it’s an ISP-provided), and I am sure only about the button-enabled WPS, unsure about external registrar. Audit Checklist Iso 27001 Standard. By the way, I’m pretty sure that two routers in my range support it. They also respond to reaver’s attempts, but they don’t show up in wash’s output. What may be happening? Am I doing wrong?

My card’s driver are patched for injection and I use it seamlessly for other WiFi tests. Reaver/walsh works great on Sabayon Linux with a Realtek-chipset card I bought for about $13. My roommate was bitching about high Internet bills and blamed me for the bills. I have a wired connection and I *do* use Torrents a fair bit. My roommate uses a wireless connection (despite being less than 20 feet from the router, as the crow flies) and insisted I was the cause of the high bill, but I know damned well I wasn’t responsible. We have another roommate who watches YouTube *endlessly*, but I got the blame. “And, you have an unnecessary wireless network, in a household where not one of us uses wireless devices.” “Dude, nobody can hack it because I have a very long and complicated password!

I used a car’s VIN number!” Yeah, well, his Pontiac’s VIN, read through the windshield, wasn’t it. Reaver did it. “987654321abc” was his super-complicated password.

Jesus, a password guessing program might have done it. Reaver cracked it in about 4 hours. He no longer bitches at me. Even admitted that I know more about computers than he does (my degree in Electrical Engineering from a Canadian University kind of trumps his time spent at the counter of a car-rental company, I would have thought). Admin reaver -i mon0 -b XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX -vv switching to channel 1 [!] WARNING: Failed to associate with XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX (ESSID: XXXXX-XXXX) [!] WARNING: Failed to associate with XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX (ESSID: XXXXX-XXXX) [!] WARNING: Failed to associate with XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX (ESSID: XXXXX-XXXX) [!] WARNING: Failed to associate with XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX (ESSID: XXXXX-XXXX) [!] WARNING: Failed to associate with XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX (ESSID: XXXXX-XXXX) i got this problem at my home network what i have to do my athk9 adapter athero windows7,64 bit intel i3 processor. An amazingly simple and effective tool!

A genuine, heartfelt thanks to the author and the guys who thought of looking at WPS. You’ve made me aware how vulnerable I am and I just replaced my router because of the knowledge I gained with this program. I have been tweaking the -d, -a, -N and -A options on several attempts at my router to discover how quickly it could fall. Is there a recommended guideline for the parameter values of these options given the operational environments (ie: signal power, AP feedback, etc.)? 24 hours working and nothing just this messages, any help?

(!) WPS transaction failed (code: 0x02) re-trying last pin (!) WARNING 10 failed connections in a row (+)Trying pin 12345670 (+)Sending EAPOL START request (+) WARNING: Receive timeout occured (+)Sending EAPOL START request (+) WARNING: Receive timeout occured (+)Sending EAPOL START request (+) WARNING: Receive timeout occured (!) WARNING 25 sucessive start failures (+) Nothing done nothing to save (+) 0.00% complete @ date ( 0 seconds pin) (+)Trying pin 12345670 (+)Sending EAPOL START request (+) WARNING: Receive timeout occured (+)Sending EAPOL START request. Using version 1.4 to crack a Netgear WPA secured router. Man, it is taking FOREVER. The problem with Reaver is when you start to attack routers with timeout values. It will get into a situation where there is a minimum timeout after so many attempts before it lets reaver rechallenge WPS. After 10 failed attempts, I set -x = 250 seconds.

That’s over 4 minutes. So, it has taken me over 8 hours just to get to 18% of the pins. Driver Hp Pavilion Zv6000 Xperience. Worst case estimate, is it takes about 45+ hours to finish. That’s a lot better than a straight dictionary attack, but it is way worse than 10 hours. Don’t delude yourself into thinking Reaver will crack WPA in 10 hours or less.

Also, lots of routers do not have WPS enabled or supported. For the newbies, you should use wash to figure out which AP’s and routers support WPS. Finally, some routers will lock down WPS after too many failed attempts. So, just so people know, Reaver is not the end alls. It is just another tool in the lockpicker’s arsenal. Personally, I think a better way would be to do a middle man attack.

Yes, if the AP rate limits you the attack will take longer. Most AP’s don’t, but Netgear is the exception. And yes, some completely lock you out after X number of attempts. I don’t think anyone is deluding themselves here, this is all documented behavior, and why reaver has options like -x. Yes, a lot of AP’s don’t support WPS, but they are typically fairly old APs. Pretty much anything made within the last 4-5 years will have WPS support on by default (it’s very rare to see people actively disable WPS).

The number of WPS enabled APs will only rise in the future. Good luck with a MITM attack. If that actually worked people would have been doing it for years now. 24 hours working and nothing just this messages, any help? Interface Chipset Driver wlan1 Atheros AR9271 ath9k – [phy1] wlan0 Broadcom b43 – [phy0] root@bt:~# airmon-ng start wlan1 Found 2 processes that could cause trouble. If airodump-ng, aireplay-ng or airtun-ng stops working after a short period of time, you may want to kill (some of) them! PID Name 2785 dhclient3 2790 dhclient3 Process with PID 2790 (dhclient3) is running on interface wlan0 Interface Chipset Driver wlan1 Atheros AR9271 ath9k – [phy1] (monitor mode enabled on mon0) wlan0 Broadcom b43 – [phy0] airodump-ng mon0 BSSID PWR Beacons #Data, #/s CH MB ENC CIPHER AUTH ESSID 00:26:4D:16:E4:67 -62 43 0 0 5 54e WPA TKIP PSK DARKANGEL_Netzwerk C0:25:06:A9:8C:62 -75 24 0 0 11 54e.

WPA2 CCMP PSK FRITZ!Box Fon WLAN 7390 68:7F:74:01:FA:FC -75 22 0 0 11 54 WPA2 CCMP PSK lufthaken C0:25:06:41:EE:4A -76 20 0 0 1 54e WPA2 CCMP PSK FRITZ!Box Fon WLAN 7112 C0:25:06:DC:B0:A4 -77 21 0 0 1 54e. WPA2 CCMP PSK FRITZ!Box 6320 Cable BSSID STATION PWR Rate Lost Frames Probe (not associated) 54:26:96:84:0A:05 -71 0 – 1 38 27 wash -i mon0 -C -s reaver -i mon0 -b 00:26:4D:16:E4:67 -c 5 -vv (WPS Locked =N) Sending WSC NACK [!] WPS transaction failed (code: 0x02), re-trying last pin [+] Nothing done, nothing to save. I have a AWUS036NH with Kali linux in Virtual Box Go to devices and select your device from the USB. After that do: airmon-ng to see if the device is there. If so, then run airmon-ng wlan0 it will set the card to monitor mode then run reaver this is my code: reaver -i mon0 -b -S -N -a -c -vv -r 17:30 -d 0 sometimes it fails to associate so I run airmon-ng mon0 and then run reaver again. My problem is that I am not able to automate the process, I have to manually re associate the AP which means I have to be looking at it the whole time:/ Unless someone has a script or something that could help me out.

Very much Appreciated it.

Trading your car into the dealer may be a simple process, but you might not always get the most money possible by handing your car over. That’s why many people choose to sell a used car privately. There are plenty of steps, though, and it’s going to take you, as the seller, some time to organize paperwork, become a photographer if you aren’t one and evaluate potential buyers. And above all, you will fare much better selling your car yourself if you don’t go into the process blindly. Here are a few things to consider when selling your car privately. Look At Places To Sell Your Car If you want the most demand for a car, it pays to list in places that could cost some money. Don’t expect to get entirely serious inquiries if you just put a “For Sale” sign on, or post a Craigslist ad with minimal details.

Look at various online sites and be prepared to pay for listings. If you’re selling a specialty kind of car, or a model with a strong owner base, consider looking for websites or publications that deal specifically with your kind of car.

Not only will your chances of finding buyers who are genuinely interested improve, but you’ll also be competing against fewer vehicles. Take Lots of Photos Photos photos photos. These are a must. Photos sell a car, and a good selection of them will give potential buyers a better idea of what you’re selling. Pick a good location that’s clean and attractive, but won’t distract from your car. Get good overall, unobscured shots of the general angles, along with clear shots of the interior. Buyers will probably think that blurry or dark shots are there to hide problems.

Also make sure your car is clean. That’s something plenty of sellers manage to forget. Again, avoid things that could discourage buyers when posting photos of your car. Prepare to Answer Questions A buyer who is actually interested in your car will ask educated questions. Be truthful and upfront with the vehicle history, the way you’ve used it, and who typically drove the car. Don’t try to cover up obvious flaws like cracked or broken lights or upholstery stains. You also don’t want to be too hasty to dismiss your vehicle’s imperfections.

Get an idea of how much it would cost to repair those items, and find out if they’re common issues with your car. If you don’t have all the answers when you’re showing your car or giving a test drive, offer to find out the information and get back to the interested party. Have All the Documents, Keys, Manuals and Records This is a must in order to sell your car for a good price and quickly. A buyer who sees what kind of work has been performed on the car will better understand its history and be more trusting of you. Again, be upfront about these issues. Better still, make sure you get all of the owner’s manuals, spare or valet keys and radio security code in order when it’s time to sell. Some of these are pretty crucial components for the car, and having them could make it easier to sell your car quickly and painlessly.

If you’ve lost a key or radio code, find out the process and how much it would be to replace them. Protect Yourself Be careful in the transaction process. Don’t hand over the keys, title and the car without securing funds first. Shady parking lot deals are also a warning sign, and it would likely help to have a friend there watching that the transaction goes smoothly. Make sure you fully understand your state’s process for switching ownership of a vehicle so you make a clean break. Still, none of these should be significant hurdles to deter you from selling your car yourself. The benefits will come in far more money than your car is worth as a trade-in.

In this case, it pays to get organized and do your research before getting the whole thing rolling.